3/24/2024 0 Comments Logitech harmony universal remote![]() ![]() If you do not have a previous Harmony remote, select No, Set Up New. If you have a previous Harmony remote and would like to import its devices and Activities, you will be able to copy them over to your new Harmony Elite. You'll be guided through several screens explaining how Harmony Elite works. I think there was some Philips equipment that had a switch on the back to turn the internal remote receiver off, though.If you already have a Harmony account, sign in. I admit, this is not a good argument because I had a Philips stereo system for years that had two remote receivers (one in an EM2200 external receiver and one in the CD player that I bought after I bought the rest of the system) and I never had any problems with them. There could be a technical reason too: With two remote receivers in a system that’s connected together via a bus, it’s possible that small differences in specifications between the infrared receivers will cause jitter, so that the timing of the signals on the bus ends up being “off” a little bit, and more difficult to interpret for the microcontrollers in all the connected systems. And that adds up to a lot of money if you sell thousands of them. I bet the DCC-91 didn’t come with a remote control (the FW91 system remote has DCC functions) so they could sell the DCC91 for the same price as the DCC450 even though it was probably $20 cheaper to build. But I bet this way it was cheaper to build the recorder. They could have put a remote control receiver into the DCC recorder so that the recorder could have been used with other systems. Philips made a big deal out of their smart remote control system. It made no sense to put a remote control in the DCC recorder because the DCC recorder had to be connected to the system remote bus to use functions such as CD-Synchro and the function that the amplifier automatically turns on when you operate one of the signal sources. The DCC91 was a separate purchase from the system so you could add it later (I have the manual for the system and it doesn’t give information about the DCC recorder it just refers to the DCC recorder manual). Most definitely the reason why there’s no sensor in the DCC91 is that it’s intended to be used with the FW91 system. If there is no schematic, I may open up the unit to really inspect the components. Rolf/Jac does the DCC Museum have the schematic for the DC-91? It would show if there’s an IR sensor or not. There is variation between units and Philips changed the DCC-91 and some have a sensor in them and others don’t.There is an IR sensor but I’m not seeing it and it’s damaged or missing.There is no IR sensor on this model because the sensor is located in other components of the system.Since the DC-91 and DC-450 are so similar, it’s possible that the same red plastic panel was used for both units, even though the DCC-450 has a sensor and the DC-91 does not. However, I don’t see an actual IR sensor located in the circular area on my DC-91 (Just a place in the plastic where one would expect to find an IR sensor). If my unit was a DCC-450, that circular area would be located beneath the IR Logo. On my DCC-91, there is a circular area in the plastic under which one would expect to find an IR sensor. I used a flashlight to illuminate the red plastic front panel so I could see inside the unit without actually opening the chassis. Brilliant stuff, and since I’ve owned one, my wife has never needed to ask me to “fix” the stereo. Then it asks for each device if the input selection is correct. If you answer “No”, it asks if each involved device is powered on, and turns it on if you say it’s off. “Help” first sends the codes to change the inputs on all devices, then it asks if that fixed the problem. And if the remote control is “out of sync” with the TV or receiver or whatever, you just push the “Help” button. You just push the “watch TV” button and it knows which codes to send. ![]() watch TV, listen to a tape etc.) where you just tell the remote control which devices need to be on, and which inputs of the receiver and TV etc. And the Harmony database also includes codes that are usually not found on the original remote controls, such as “power on” separate from “power off” usually remote controls only have “power toggle”.Īnd in the Harmony you can program a couple of “Activities” (e.g. But it’s not even close to a Harmony.Ī Harmony can be programmed to control devices for which you don’t even have the remote control, so no need to have the original and no need to do a bunch of time-consuming learning. It worked okay and was much more comfortable than the stupid pillbox remote controls that I got with my Marantz Slimline system. I had one of those Philips remote controls before I emigrated. ![]()
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